This is the Paddington Neck Warmer by designer Roxanne Wood, that I found as a free knitting pattern on Ravelry.com. It was super easy and quick to make. One of those in-front-of-the-TV projects that doesn’t need too much concentration. The end result? A warm and stylish neck warmer!
Knitted neck warmer pattern:
I used a size 8 US needles (5mm) and 1 Skein of Loops & Threads Cozy Wool
Note: Because the yarn is half wool, and because of the pattern you will need to block it well after you finish. Upon wearing it will change shape to conform with your neck and the way you wear it. Do be sure of your look and fit, do a swatch to start and see how it goes. The yarn you use and how you knit may differ from mine. Below I completed a second version using 100% acrylic yarn, Lion Brand Hometown . I used the same needles and pattern.
[Loops & Threads Cozy Wool yarn description: This yarn is a thick, chunky yarn made of a soft wool blend. Available in a rich palette of warm and relaxed shades, Cozy Wool is perfect for making accessories and comfy, warm blankets. This easy to work with yarn works up quickly and is a dream to knit or crochet. Weight: Super Bulky (6) Contents: 50% Wool / 50% Acrylic Skein Weight: 4.5 oz. / 127 g Yardage: 90 yd. / 82 m Knitting Tension: 9 sts – 12 rows = 4″ (10 cm) Suggested Knitting Needle: 9 mm, US – 13 Suggested Crochet Hook: 9 mm, US – M/13]
- CO 19 sts.
Pattern Row *K2, P2; rep from * to last 3 sts, end with K2, P1
- To begin, work 4 rows of Pattern Row
- Buttonhole row (work once): K2, YO, P2 tog. Then [K2, P2] repeat across to last 7 sts, K2, P1, P2 tog, YO, K1, P1
- Continue to work Pattern Row until piece measures 22″ or until neck warmer is the desired length. For me this was about 28″.
- Bind off in Pattern.
- Weave in ends and block.
- Sew on buttons.
Same pattern, same needles, different yarn
These photos show the same pattern using an acrylic yarn, Lion Brand Yarn Hometown, Dallas Grey
37 Comments
Your instructions for the Knitted Neck Warmer only shows one buttonhole row. Shouldn’t there be two? Wouldn’t it need to be repeated toward the end? Help! 🙂
Thank you.
Grace
The instructions are correct. the button holes are made —one at the beginning and one at the end —- of the “buttonhole row”
Ah….now I see. Thank you so much for the quick response. I LOVE this neck warmer and will likely be making more than one for friends this holiday season.
Grace
You’re very welcome! Remember too you can position the buttons anywhere you want the fit to be. Either straight like the image here or slanted like the Dallas Grey neck warmer I did using Lion Brand chunky acrylic yarnhttp://www.amazon.com/Lion-Brand-Yarn-135-149K-Hometown/dp/B0042TQ4MS
I an going to add pics to this post now do you can see what I mean.
I Love this pattern. Thank you.
I’m so glad! I hope to see your finished piece! 🙂
At the beginning you say you used Loops and Threads Cozy wool with #8 needles but the yarn calls for #13. Later on you say you used Lion Brand Hometown. You gave no width for the
finished scarf. I have used Moda Dea Cache and #10.5 needles and it looks to be about 5″ wide.
Hi Mary! You are correct, the yarn calls for size 13 needles, but I swear I used 8! I even checked just for you to make sure I wasn’t crazy. I have updated the pattern here, to say that I used smaller needles but you certainly don’t have to. I wanted a tighter knit. As long as you are happy with the width with the yarn and needles you have I say you should continue. After blocking my width was more like 8 inches. But when you wear the neckwarmer for a while it will change shape as it conforms to your neck.
In the buttonhole row I have lost a stitch, is that correct?
That is correct, you will make a stitch in its place in the next row.
I don’t understand where I make up the extra stitch. I am only new to knitting
I too am having problems with the buttonhole row….where is the “make a stitch” in the next row? I wld like your help with this because I love this scarf:-)
Hi Suzan! I apologize if I wasn’t clear in my instructions. After you complete the button hole row with the Yarn Overs (YO) you would then work those in the next row as a stitch. The YO creates the hole, and then you pick it up work it in the next row. Hope this helps!
Hi Marni, thank you for your reply. It turns out that I wasn’t wrapping the yarn TWICE around the needle when it came to PURL 2tog thinking that once was enough:-)
I’m a beginner. Where it has buttonhole row after the 4 rows is that sentence for 1 button hole? Also, where do I put the second button hole just ehere ever I want it.? Aft e r I put the first button hole do I continue to end with the pattern row. Also, what d oes it mean to last 7 stitches as more knitting is after that comment? Greatly appreciate
Hi Karen, I hope it’s not too late to reply! The button hole row is worked after the first 4 rows of the pattern:
To begin, work 4 rows of Pattern Row
Button hole row (work once): K2, YO, P2 tog (K2, P2) across to last 7 sts, K2, P1, P2 tog, YO, K1, P1
Continue to work Pattern Row until piece measures 22″ or until neck warmer is the desired length. For me this was about 28″.
Where you decide to put the buttons is up to you. Either along the edge, matching the distance of the holes, or diagonally. Try the neck warmer on and see how you want it to close. Then match the buttonholes to the places on the neck warmer you want the buttons to go.
Marni
I don’t know how to knit with needles. Can you make instructions to loom knit?
Hi Teresa,
I don’t know how to loom knit, so I’m afraid I don’t have the instructions you need. Sorry!
Marni
Love this! very easy to follow instructions! Just a quick question- did you sew the buttons on with wool? or thread? Not sure which will be stronger and last longer- plus not sure the wool will pass through the holes of the button?
Thanks, in advance
Hi Alicia!
Thank you! I actually used wool, but after 2 years one of my buttons fell off. It might be a better idea to use thread. You could also add wool on top to cover it up, just for looks.
Marni
Do you knit the knits and lurk the lurks or just repeat the pattern each row?
Hi Tara, I hope it’s not to late to reply to your questions – if you haven’t figured it out by now, you repeat the pattern each row, you don’t knit knits and purl purls 🙂 Just do the same stitches back and forth. Thanks! Marni
Love this pattern! How do I go about blocking this neck warmer? It looks too narrow at this point.
I lay it out on a flat surface, like the rug or some blocking tiles which I don’t have… and then pin it in place, and hold a steam, iron just over the piece so that it gets warm and moist. Then I let it dry completely.
Hello, I Googled this scarf on a very chilly English afternoon, I used chunky wool on size 1 English needles, easy pattern to follow good result, I just knitted till I ran out of wool! I was wearing the next day.
Thank you, Hilary.
Hi Hilary! I’m so glad you like the scarf! 🙂
Hello
I don’t know what you mean “block it well” I’m knew to knitting. Would appreciate it if you could explan?
Liz B
I guess by “block it well” I just mean really steam or wet it and let it dry completely even when you can’t wait!
Its brilliant! Knitted up so quick and looks good. Going to be a pressie for friend – think she will be impressed! Thanks for sharing. Pam
Awesome!
Thanks so much for the free pattern it is absolutely stunning! Can’t wait to get my knit on.
New knitter here. 19 stitches seem so narrow. Yours looks much wider. I am using Paloma by Debbie bliss
Hi Eileen, If you feel like it’s going to be too narrow you can add stitches in increments of 4, so instead of 19, cast on 23, or 27, etc. When you are done you will block the piece, meaning you lay it flat and pin it to the dimensions you want, then steam it with an iron and let it cool. This can increase the width.
Thank You thank You thank You. Wish me luck
love this look. however, after I completed the buttonrow, i have gained 7 extra stitches and do not know how or why? any suggestions?
Did you figure out the issue? I took a look at the instructions I gave and tried to make it more clear: Buttonhole row (work once): K2, YO, P2 tog. Then [K2, P2] repeat across to last 7 sts, K2, P1, P2 tog, YO, K1, P1. You should not gain any stitches because each YO (+1) is balanced by a P2 tog (-1)